Propex HeatSource, One Winter In.

There are two ways to heat a teardrop and only one of them lets you sleep soundly. A cheap air heater burns fuel using air from inside the cabin and vents its exhaust through a pipe you installed yourself. A room-sealed heater takes its combustion air from outside, burns it in a closed chamber, and puts the exhaust back outside — the cabin air never touches the flame. We run a Propex HeatSource for that reason, and after one winter the reasoning still holds.

ModelHS2000
FuelPropane
CombustionRoom-Sealed
Output6,500 BTU/hr
DC Draw~1.4A Running
OutletsTwo, 60mm Ducted

Room-Sealed Is the Whole Argument

Everything else about this heater is a detail. The reason it's in the trailer is that its combustion chamber is sealed off from the space you're sleeping in. Air comes in from outside, burns, and leaves outside. Nothing about that process shares air with the cabin.

The alternative is a heater that draws cabin air to burn and relies on a single exhaust pipe and its seals to keep the products of that combustion out of the space you're breathing. When those systems work, they work. When a seal fails, or a pipe cracks, or an install was rushed, the failure mode is carbon monoxide in an enclosed box with two sleeping people in it. That's not a risk profile we were willing to design around, at any price difference.

None of which removes the need for a CO alarm. Run one regardless of what you heat with — a room-sealed heater lowers the odds, it doesn't eliminate them, and the alarm is the cheapest thing in the whole build.

What It Costs to Run

A propane furnace has two appetites. The obvious one is propane, and the less obvious one is electricity — the fan and the control board run off the 12V system whenever the heater is on, which means the heater is quietly competing with the fridge for the battery bank on exactly the nights you need both.

Propane

Cycles like any thermostat-controlled heater. A cold night takes noticeably less than people expect, because the cabin is small and reheats fast once it's insulated.

Amp-Hours

The fan is the draw, not the flame. Worth measuring on your own shunt over a cold night and adding it to the battery sizing sums — it's not nothing.

Recovery Speed

The advantage of heating a small insulated box: it comes back up to temperature in minutes, so it can run in short bursts rather than continuously.

Thermostat Behaviour

Set it lower than you'd set a house. A teardrop overshoots easily and you'll be opening a window at 2am, which wastes the propane and the amp-hours both.

Living With It

One winter of camping in the Smokies, where the valleys hold cold air and a clear night in the shoulder season will drop further than the forecast suggested. What we've found:

It Just Runs

Set the thermostat, sleep. No pre-heating ritual, no fuel priming, no waiting on a glow plug.

Quiet Enough

You hear the fan, and you hear it cycle. In a cabin this size that's unavoidable with any forced-air heater — it's a hum, not a roar.

Dry Heat

Underrated. Because combustion is sealed, it isn't dumping water vapour into the cabin the way an unvented burner would — which matters a great deal given how much moisture two sleeping people already add.

Shares the Propane

Same bottle as the cooktop. One fuel to manage rather than a separate diesel tank and its own filler.

One Outlet Isn't Enough

The kit ships with a single outlet and a metre of ducting. We split it with a 60mm T-piece to two outlets, one each side, so each person can adjust the warm air on their side or close their vent entirely. Plan that before the interior panels go on.

Winter Storage

Like everything propane, it wants the bottle off and the system shut down properly when the trailer sits. We'll be sharing a winterizing post soon, so check back for the details.

Against the Cheap Diesel Heaters

The comparison everyone actually wants. The inexpensive diesel air heaters sold under a dozen brand names are genuinely capable of heating a small space, they're a fraction of the price, and plenty of people run them without incident. Being fair about them matters, because the price gap is large enough to be a real decision rather than a formality.

Where the Cheap Ones Win

  • Cost, by a wide margin — often a fraction of the price
  • Plenty of heat output for the money
  • Diesel is easy to carry separately from your cooking fuel
  • Huge community of people documenting installs

Where They Cost You

  • Combustion quality varies unit to unit at that price
  • The safety of the install rests entirely on your exhaust routing and seals
  • Fuel pump ticking is a real thing people learn to hate
  • A second fuel to store, and diesel spills smell forever
  • Altitude and cold-start behaviour can be temperamental

Our position isn't that the cheap heaters are unusable. It's that a sealed combustion chamber is the one component in a camper where we'd rather not be relying on our own workmanship, and the price difference bought exactly that.

In the Bay

A Propex HeatSource propane furnace installed in a teardrop camper's utility bay
Room-sealed means combustion air comes from outside and exhaust goes back outside — the cabin air never touches the flame.
Two round heater outlets on either side of a Propex digital thermostat on a teardrop's plywood bulkhead, above an open bay showing the ducting and the heater
The kit comes with one outlet. A T-piece splits the ducting to two, one each side of the thermostat, so each person can adjust the warm air on their side or close their vent entirely.
Stainless flexible exhaust pipe with an inline silencer and blue silicone couplers, run beneath a teardrop camper's floor
The combustion pipes leave through the floor and run underneath. Their routing is the part of the install that has to be right, and the part that's hardest to change later.
A white 11 lb squat propane tank mounted on a teardrop trailer's tongue, with a two-stage regulator bolted to a bracket beside it
The tank and regulator going onto the tongue. One squat 11 lb bottle feeds both the heater and the cooktop.

Where It Falls Short

The Honest Complaints

  • Expensive, and there's no getting around it — you're paying for the sealed chamber
  • The install is more involved than a cheap heater: two floor penetrations for the combustion pipes, a gas line, and ducting to plan
  • It needs 12V, so a flat battery means no heat regardless of how full the propane bottle is
  • Fan noise is audible in a cabin this small — you notice every cycle
  • Propane output drops in genuinely severe cold, which is a property of the fuel rather than the heater

Planning the Power?

The heater's fan is one more load competing for the same battery bank as the fridge. Our wiring diagram builder will size the system around both.

Open the Wiring Diagram Builder

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The heater and its thermostat come from a Propex dealer, not Amazon. What's here is the CO alarm every camper needs, the parts to take the ducting past the single outlet the kit ships with, and a tank to run it all. The HS2000 uses 60mm ducting, so match that size on every ducting part.

CO Alarm, No Wiring

Kidde 10-year sealed battery with a digital display — it shows the CO reading, not just the alarm, and it keeps working when the house battery is flat.

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CO and Propane, Hardwired

Safe-T-Alert 85 Series, 12V — watches for propane leaks as well as CO, which matters when the heater and the cooktop share a bottle.

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A Second Outlet

The 60mm T-piece we used. The flap valve lets you close one side, handy for sending all the heat to the foot of the bed.

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More Ducting

60mm foil ducting that stretches to 3 metres. The kit's single metre won't reach two outlets, and short runs keep the most heat.

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The Outlet Itself

A 60mm directional outlet that rotates a full 360°, so you can aim the warm air at the floor.

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The Propane

Flame King 11 lb squat tank with a built-in gauge. For a teardrop, 5–11 lb is the sweet spot: enough for a weekend of heat and cooking, and short enough to sit on the tongue.

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